Nice: Death at Chocolate on Place Garibaldi
When traveling in Nice, Northern Europeans should not be too lighthearted with Italian-sounding names. Because otherwise you might find yourself in a completely different place in the city and do not even understand why.
In Nice, there are two places, whose name comes from a superficial reading on a French map with miniature script (and under the influence of a few glasses of rosé for supper) are very similar: Place Grimaldi and Place Garibaldi. The former is rather small and inconspicuous, while the second one is very decorative and one of the big central squares in Nice.
So that there will be no confusion in the future and we can also elegantly juggle with Italian names, we'll take a look Now, who were these people after whom the squares are named? Ready for a bit of history?
Let's take a closer look at the Grimaldi family first. It is not for nothing that she reappears all over the Cote d'Azur. The inclined Gala reader will feel directly reminded - there was something ?! Yes, exactly: The reigning Prince of Monaco, Albert, just comes from this noble family. His father, Fürst Ranier (the Baufürst), was married to the equally photogenic and mystified American actor Grace Kelly.
Originally, the Grimaldis were probably one of the big families who joined in the 10th and 11th centuries different-minded families fought over the city and the "Monte Carlo". This was a single house and stinging and the Italian equivalent of the German dispute between Guelphs and Staufer - in principle, it was about the bickering between the emperor and the pope, the secular and ecclesiastical power.
In any case, found the Grimaldis the rock in the bay of today's Monaco strategically well located and from a professional point of view quite exciting and could eventually occupy him. So in the 13th century they built a fortress with four towers, which is still the residence of the Grimaldis in Monaco (a bit extended and beautified, of course).
At that time, people also knew each other quite well To put the rulers of the important seafaring nations and married here and there accordingly. There was even a female regent of Grimaldis, who presided over Monaco in the first half of the eighteenth century. Unfortunately, for unknown reasons, it passed away in the year of its accession to the throne in 1731. We are well informed about the family situation of the Grimaldis today.
Time to take a closer look at the Place Garibaldi: Who is the Lord with so with a determined expression on the fountain with lions and water fountains?
May I introduce you - Guiseppe Garibaldi. He was an Italian guerrilla with a turbulent curriculum vitae, whose descendants do not appear in the gala today. During the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1871) Garibaldi led an army of volunteers to support the new French Republic. Later he was appointed by the French National Assembly to the Deputé of Nice. Unfortunately, he stupidly argued for a return of Nice to Italy. Nice and Savoy had been ceded by Sardinia to France in 1861 in exchange for military assistance in the war against Austria. Therefore, his appointment as Deputé was reversed. Today, after all, he is allowed to look at the fountain in the direction of Italy as a Mamorstand image and stands thus meters high above the muddle of the day.
The buildings around the Garibaldi square are in the final stages of the restoration.At second glance, it becomes clear that we are here in a well-crafted illusion. The building facades are not lush, but very simple! All structural elements of the façade are detailed and perspectively perfectly painted. Now we become suspicious and even suspect that some of the windows are just painter's brushes and are not real at all ... Does the building ever have windows?
But a very close look shows that the windows and the typical shutters are real. Only the façade decoration around it is all in all painted virtuoso. Despite (or because of) the painted illusion, the Place Garibaldi is architecturally very pretty and in the buildings that delimit the space, a number of restaurants, bistros and cafes are waiting for guests seeking relaxation.
We too need now Relaxation after all the historical details. We find them directly under the arcades on the western side of the square:
We sit down at one of the small tables under the arcades at Patissier Serain Gappa and enjoy the view of the square. However, the selection in the showcases is confusing: dozens of tarts, pies, candied clementines, chocolates and macarons of all stripes vie for our attention. Finally, we order Cafe au lait and these two pieces of patisserie art:
The tart with fruit tastes light and fresh. In the poppy-seeded dough lies a core of fluffy vanilla cream. The dark tart is a dream for chocolate lovers. How can you just make a glaze that tastes incredibly chocolaty, is fluid, gleams fantastically and sticks to the tart at the same time? Inside, there are fine layers of chocolate cake with other melt-in-the-mouth chocolate cream layers.
Despite strong coffee, I make only 3/4 of the tart and nearly die the happiest chocolate dumpling on Place Garibaldi.
Patissier Serain Gappa
64 rue Arson
Tel. +33 4 93 55 00 56